Tip Tuesday: Trim Colors
Tue, Apr 6 2010 02:11
| Paint, Tip Tuesday
Everyone thinks that choosing your paint colors will change your whole room, and to some degree, they are right. However, selecting the proper trim color is extremely important as well (and no, all whites and ivories aren't the same)! Picking a trim color is very difficult because some have grey, pink, yellow, green or blue undertones. There are many, so called "whites" out there that it becomes overwhelming.
The most important thing to remember is that you shouldn't just slap up the painters white on your trim. You want to choose a trim that will compliment your paint colors. So, I am going to try and ease your selections by giving you my three favorite Sherwin Williams trim colors.
My tendency is to avoid using the traditional painters bright white and to select a softer ivory tone instead. It will still stand out against your walls (except if your walls are white) but it just doesn't glare at you like some of the whites out there. You want the trim to be an accessory in your room and not the focal point.
My tendency is to avoid using the traditional painters bright white and to select a softer ivory tone instead. It will still stand out against your walls (except if your walls are white) but it just doesn't glare at you like some of the whites out there. You want the trim to be an accessory in your room and not the focal point.
These trim colors I am sharing with you also compliment many paint colors that you may choose for your walls.
1- Decor White
SW 7559
2- Roman Column
SW 7562
3-Dover White
SW 6385
I prefer using a semi-gloss or glossy finish for the trims so they clean well and make a little "pop" around your rooms.
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Tip Tuesday: Decorative Bathroom Mirrors
Tue, Nov 3 2009 05:13
| Tip Tuesday
Unless you've designed or have plans to replace the hardware, tile, flooring, and fixtures in your bathroom, homeowners are left with a simple few elements to personalize this space. Replacing your standard contractor lighting is one relatively cheap and effective approach. Bath textiles such as towels, shower curtains, and window treatments are also cost-effective ways to add some boldness to a bathroom...but these don't have to be your only options.
One option I often ask clients to consider is replacing their standard frameless mirror with a decorative mirror. Bathrooms might be utilitarian in their purpose, but it doesn't mean they can't have some elements of artistry and weight as well.
It is true that textiles are simple and offer a huge range of choices and styles, but what if you have a shower stall with a glass door or you don't want to bring that much attention to a tub area? Why not pull the focus away from these elements and over to the more intimate space of your vanity?
Here's a few tips or ideas for adding a decorative mirror to your bathroom, but be sure to check back tomorrow when I highlight a design studio that specializes in beautiful, artistic decorative mirrors.
Tips:
1. Shape matters
Rectangular mirrors will fill the space fully and give a clean, tight, classic appearance to your vanity. In terms of use, they are also the most economical in the square inches they provide. Circular mirrors hang on the wall like a piece of art and require a more surrounding space to breathe. They offer less square inches but make a bold, contemporary statement to the room. Oval shapes give a soft effect, feel light, and regal. They're a great choice if you want more square inches than a circular mirror but want to soften the hard lines of the rest of the room. Choose a shape that makes the most sense for the look you want to achieve and the space available.
2. Go DIY
One super easy solution for this space is to go to a local framing store and choose from one of their custom wood frames. With the range of stains and finishes (including a nice shiny lacquer, yeah!) you have a wide variety of options to fit your existing bathroom motif.
Call a glass dealer in your area to have the mirror made for the frame and you have a great, custom mirror for less than a few hundred dollars.
One option I often ask clients to consider is replacing their standard frameless mirror with a decorative mirror. Bathrooms might be utilitarian in their purpose, but it doesn't mean they can't have some elements of artistry and weight as well.
It is true that textiles are simple and offer a huge range of choices and styles, but what if you have a shower stall with a glass door or you don't want to bring that much attention to a tub area? Why not pull the focus away from these elements and over to the more intimate space of your vanity?
Here's a few tips or ideas for adding a decorative mirror to your bathroom, but be sure to check back tomorrow when I highlight a design studio that specializes in beautiful, artistic decorative mirrors.
Tips:
1. Shape matters
Rectangular mirrors will fill the space fully and give a clean, tight, classic appearance to your vanity. In terms of use, they are also the most economical in the square inches they provide. Circular mirrors hang on the wall like a piece of art and require a more surrounding space to breathe. They offer less square inches but make a bold, contemporary statement to the room. Oval shapes give a soft effect, feel light, and regal. They're a great choice if you want more square inches than a circular mirror but want to soften the hard lines of the rest of the room. Choose a shape that makes the most sense for the look you want to achieve and the space available.
2. Go DIY
One super easy solution for this space is to go to a local framing store and choose from one of their custom wood frames. With the range of stains and finishes (including a nice shiny lacquer, yeah!) you have a wide variety of options to fit your existing bathroom motif.
Call a glass dealer in your area to have the mirror made for the frame and you have a great, custom mirror for less than a few hundred dollars.
Another DIY option is to hit the flea market or yard sales to find an older frame you can reuse. Just remove the old artwork, add a mirror and any additional hardware needed for support.
3. Buy the right size
If you want the mirror to have some punch, it needs space on the wall to breathe. Allow ample, and preferably equal room around the mirror edges if the mirror is near side walls. If the mirror hugs the vanity and vanity light too tight but leaves too much space around the mirror sides, it will feel cramped and forced. Remember, you're trying to bring the focal point to the mirror itself, so give it some room to pop.
4. Simple design ideas
If you want the mirror to have some punch, it needs space on the wall to breathe. Allow ample, and preferably equal room around the mirror edges if the mirror is near side walls. If the mirror hugs the vanity and vanity light too tight but leaves too much space around the mirror sides, it will feel cramped and forced. Remember, you're trying to bring the focal point to the mirror itself, so give it some room to pop.
4. Simple design ideas
- If you have a small bathroom, choose a shower curtain to match or coordinate with the color of your wall paint. This will de-emphasize the space around the tub which will allow you to really make a statement with a unique mirror (especially if the mirror frame is a punchy color).
- Think about taking the mirror all the way up to the ceiling. Coupled with a unique vanity light, this can be a very dramatic approach that adds some depth and height to the room. It will require some custom cutting and drilling to accommodate your vanity light, but with some assistance, this is a super chic look.
- For long, double sink vanity mirrors, consider mounting two uniquely shaped mirrors above each sink with a sconce or other vertical wall element in between. This will help break up the long stretch of the vanity top and bring vertical focus/alignment to the vanity light, mirror, sink, and hardware.
Tip Tuesday: Starting a Collection
Mon, Aug 31 2009 10:19
| Tip Tuesday
As an extension of yesterday's post about the 'New Vintage' I thought it would be beneficial to list a few tips about starting your own collection. I believe that many people have a desire to collect vintage objects and ephemera but are just scared because they just don't know where to even begin with a collection.
So, if you're someone who thinks collecting figural Victorian bottles, or taxidermy, or vintage panorama photographs, or paper ephemera, or Pez dispensers, or vintage cameras, or anything that is old and beautiful and has a story or history, then here are some tips to help you get started.
Happy collecting! Just for fun, I've included a few of my favorite collections that I found from Flickr for inspiration. (all the images link back to their Flickr set)
So, if you're someone who thinks collecting figural Victorian bottles, or taxidermy, or vintage panorama photographs, or paper ephemera, or Pez dispensers, or vintage cameras, or anything that is old and beautiful and has a story or history, then here are some tips to help you get started.
1. Collect what interests you not what you think other people find interesting.
What's the point in collecting objects you don't love or find fascinating? It doesn't matter what they are, you can always make their presentation interesting once you build a larger collection.
2. Get educated with some preliminary research.
Hit up a Google image search to see what strange items pop up. Look up existing prices and ranges of items on Ebay. Go to flickr and see images of other peoples collections that they've photographed. If nothing else, try to find social networks centered around your interest or websites dedicated to your quirky collection interest. Your ultimate goal is to get a general idea on the differences between common objects and those that are rare, including common pricing structures. You also want to be educated on prices so you know what to pay when you do find your objects.
3. Limit your scope.
You must limit the scope to a specific subset of objects. Trying to collect everything is not only frustrating but unachievable. If you like paper ephemera, start by narrowing it down to a few specific types, like pre-war postcards or 1950s food adverts. If you like mid-century vases, only collect vases in a Sungold yellow color. Limiting scope will not only allow you to discover the small differences between common objects and rare finds, but it will make the experience of searching all the more intriguing.
4. Don't reach for the sky initially.
Buy a few common, but good quality pieces that will help build your set. Have patience in letting the set build organically and naturally. It will take more time, but you will ultimately be happier with a smaller, but quality collection than a large, mediocre collection.
5. Hit the streets.
Unique pieces aren't always going to show up on Ebay and other related websites. Yard sales, surplus stores, flea markets, estate sales, and smaller, quirky vintage and antique shops around town are your best bets for finding something unique. Don't get frustrated if you don't find what you're looking for. Again, patience and determination is your friend. Frequent these places and try to build relationships with people who may have what you want. If you can get people looking for you and contacting you before it's even put up for sale, you'll find some great, rare pieces.
What's the point in collecting objects you don't love or find fascinating? It doesn't matter what they are, you can always make their presentation interesting once you build a larger collection.
2. Get educated with some preliminary research.
Hit up a Google image search to see what strange items pop up. Look up existing prices and ranges of items on Ebay. Go to flickr and see images of other peoples collections that they've photographed. If nothing else, try to find social networks centered around your interest or websites dedicated to your quirky collection interest. Your ultimate goal is to get a general idea on the differences between common objects and those that are rare, including common pricing structures. You also want to be educated on prices so you know what to pay when you do find your objects.
3. Limit your scope.
You must limit the scope to a specific subset of objects. Trying to collect everything is not only frustrating but unachievable. If you like paper ephemera, start by narrowing it down to a few specific types, like pre-war postcards or 1950s food adverts. If you like mid-century vases, only collect vases in a Sungold yellow color. Limiting scope will not only allow you to discover the small differences between common objects and rare finds, but it will make the experience of searching all the more intriguing.
4. Don't reach for the sky initially.
Buy a few common, but good quality pieces that will help build your set. Have patience in letting the set build organically and naturally. It will take more time, but you will ultimately be happier with a smaller, but quality collection than a large, mediocre collection.
5. Hit the streets.
Unique pieces aren't always going to show up on Ebay and other related websites. Yard sales, surplus stores, flea markets, estate sales, and smaller, quirky vintage and antique shops around town are your best bets for finding something unique. Don't get frustrated if you don't find what you're looking for. Again, patience and determination is your friend. Frequent these places and try to build relationships with people who may have what you want. If you can get people looking for you and contacting you before it's even put up for sale, you'll find some great, rare pieces.
Happy collecting! Just for fun, I've included a few of my favorite collections that I found from Flickr for inspiration. (all the images link back to their Flickr set)
Tip Tuesday
Tue, Aug 18 2009 04:33
| Tip Tuesday
Shade Size
I've compiled some buying tips for finding that perfect shade size for your table lamps...
- Match the Base - Think Size, Shape, Style, Color. Larger lamp bases require larger shades. Square bases may look better with a square shade. Victorian bases will probably look better with a Victorian shade, etc. Your goal is to match the “mood” of the base. Or if you want to mix up a style, purposefully put a modern round or square shade with a traditional or antique lamp base.
- Compliment the Base - A shade should make the base look better without competing with it for attention. Decide if the lamp base will be an accessory, or a main focal piece in your room. If your base is really unique, choose a simple shade to draw attention to the special features of the lamp. Or, if your base is plain and simple, choose a patterned, painted, or leather (textured) shade to add some flare to your lamp.
- Hide the Switch - Your shade should just barely cover the switch. Try different sized harps or add a shade riser to fine-tune your shade fit.
- Sizing Rules of Thumb-
- Shade height should be about 3/4 the height of the base.
- The bottom of the shade should be wider than the widest part of the base.
- Shade width should approximately equal the height from bottom of base to socket. - Consider the Use - Reading lamps need a wider shade to provide plenty of light.
Smaller, darker, or shades made of less transparent material are better for mood lighting. Consider the Room - What is the color and style of your room? Will the lamp have a decor impact or just compliment its surroundings? Consider the Bulb - Be sure you have 3 inches separation from bulb to shade, especially for higher wattage bulbs. Be sure the top opening is wide enough to vent the heat. Compact Fluorescent bulbs are great for most lamps because they burn cooler, but you may need larger harp since CFL's are taller than standard light bulbs.
Here are some great examples of table lamp shades of proper size and shape for their bases:
Tip Tuesday
Wed, Aug 12 2009 09:45
| Tip Tuesday
Oh, I know, today is Wednesday and I hope you will forgive me for sending this a day late. I had to put my clients first yesterday but while meeting with them, it gave me my tip...
INSPIRATION!
Yes, such a loaded word with such great vastness and depth. So hears my tip...
Step out of your funk or your box, which ever, and grab a helpful tool for some inspiration. May it be a magazine, book, HGTV, internet, blogs (I know, a shameless plug for my blog as well!) , friend's homes, stores, etc. All of these creative ideas are out there, you just have to plug them together to create your own inspiration. If there is something that just strikes you, use it and go with it. That is why all of these things are out there...for INSPIRATION. I am constantly looking through magazines and my husband, a graphic designer, is constantly ready and researching books. Why? For inspiration! You never want to "copy" anyone's work, you just want to get ideas that will give your mind and creativity a trigger or jump start.
All the new magazine editions came out last week for September and there are some visually stimulating ideas floating out there. So, go grab a few or pick up a book and get started!!!
My favorite magazine edition for this month is House Beautiful. I love the; dramatic use of colors through the issue, headboard feature, rug feature and color feature.
What's yours? I would love to hear from my readers what has given you an inspiration recently or which magazine or book you like the best this month. Inspire us all!
Tip Tuesday
Tue, Aug 4 2009 03:55
| Tip Tuesday
Shower Curtains...
Yes, I know it sounds like a boring topic, but it could seriously make or break your bathroom (for those of you who have shower bathtubs).
If you don't have the money or time to have your shower curtains custom designed or you just need a quick fix, then here is an easy alternative that will give you the same look. Instead of those standard 70"x72" shower curtains use two standard sized window curtains 54"x84". By doing this, the curtains will add the following to your bathroom:
- height= because they are longer and you have to install the rod closer to the ceiling, your eye focus gets drawn upward
- warmth= because two draperies total 108" width (rather than 72"), they add more fullness to the space, which in return, adds more warmth (and fluff) to the room
- tailored appearance= the rod and rings can be hidden which creates an elegant/clean look
- custom appearance= since there is a larger variety in curtains to chose from, there is more options to coordinate with your decor/theme
Don't forget that you can always add trim to these window treatments in your bathroom to give an even more custom appearance to your shower curtains.
Also, keep in mind that when selecting your curtains, look for ones with at least a 3" rod pocket (the larger the better). That way the standard curtain rods will fit through the rod pockets and you will be able to slide the curtain back and forth more easily. Another idea is to hang your curtain from a custom wooden rod using rings/clips or find a curtain with grommet holes. If you do pursue this idea, keep in mind that you will need to put an additional rod behind your curtain for the shower curtain liner or you can use drapery pins to attach the liner to the curtain (instructions and images below).
Drapery Pin Instructions:
Stick the sharp end (right side of image below) into the back of your curtain but not so far that you can see it through the front. Then, slide the hook (left side of image below) through the holes of the shower liner.
Tip Tuesday
Tue, Jul 21 2009 02:31
| accessories, Tip Tuesday
Down vs. Polyester
Have you ever sat on someones sofa with a pillow behind your back and you were almost falling off because the pillow was taking up too much room or you weren't comfortable with the piece of foam behind you (literally)? No matter how beautiful the fabric is on decorative pillows, pillow density is important.
There are usually two different types of pillow forms when you are selecting decorative pillows: down feathered pillows and polyester pillows. Down pillows are soft and fluffy, considered the "cream of the crop," and are more luxurious. Polyester pillow forms are more sponge-like and feel 'bouncy'.
Another advantage to down pillows over poly is that down forms to your body when you sit so the pillows don't take up as much space on sofa's or chairs. There is more 'give' to a down pillow whereas a poly form has none. Therefore, they add just the right amount of comfort for your body.
The main reason down is more expensive is that it is a sustainable filling that is produced from ducks and geese. Down is also a three dimensional 'cluster' which is extremely soft and light. To ensure it's softness, a down pillow by law has to have 75% or more down clusters within it. The remaining percentages may include more down, down fibers, and/or small feathers.
In the long run, you are paying for durability as well when you buy down pillows. The lifespan of down pillow forms should last up to 5-7 years while the polyester forms may only last 2-3 years.
If you are custom designing your own pillows and you choose down, you can expect to pay anywhere from $6-$10 more than the standard poly filled forms. If you are looking for a pre-made decorative pillows you're in luck with pricing since down is making it's comeback. There are more choices in the retail world that are the exact same price as the polyester filled pillows. The bottom line is that you will pay more for the luxury in down but it is definitely well worth it.
So the winner by a long slide is...choose down filled pillows!!! Wouldn't you prefer to select the comfort and luxury over a hard sponge??
**As a final caveat, there are certain cases in which poly filled pillows can be used. Those cases are typically when you "need" to add visual or necessary thickness and/or depth. Examples are:
1-beds
2-furniture that has a deep seat - over 20" (your feet should touch the ground when sitting on any piece of furniture)
Tip Tuesday: Hanging Artwork
Mon, Jul 13 2009 11:31
| Tip Tuesday
And the appropriate picture hanging center height is...5'1"- 5'4".
Correct picture heights is one of the most frequent questions I encounter. Your pictures/artwork should act as focal points to move your eyes consistently around the room. Having the center of artwork hung at a uniform height will ground each piece together and will balance the room.
So, before you start hanging those pictures, here's some designer insight and helpful tips to use:
- Center all pictures at the same height. You want your eye to flow around the room when you enter, and the best way to achieve this is to have a consistent focal points. Even when pictures are of different sizes you will maintain motion in the room by having a uniform focal point.
- Remember not everyone is as tall or short as you. A general rule of thumb is that the average eye height is around 5'-3.5" so you the center of all your artwork should be be in this range ( 5'1"-5'4"). Lastly, I recommend that you not center your artwork any lower than 5' nor higher than 5'6" (unless doing collages or hanging above furniture, etc- but that is for another post...)
- For each picture you need to hang in a room, do the following:
- Make a mark on the wall 5'-2" above the floor (or anywhere between 5'-1" and 5'-4" as long as you use this same height for each picture you hang).
- Measure the distance from the top of the picture hanger to the center of the picture.
- Find the mark you made on the wall and measure up this same distance.
- Place your nail or screw at this point.
- Repeat for each picture. - If you need to place two pieces next to one another that are similar but not exactly the same size you should still align their center points. Aligning the tops of the frames will actually make their slight size different more apparent. (Rather than your eye noticing a 2" difference at the bottom of one picture, it's better to split the difference and leave an 1" on the top and bottom. Your eye won't perceive this difference as much.)
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